Famadihana

Famadihana means 'turning of the bones' and is a traditional practice done in some regions of Madagascar. At my site, Famadihana is typically done in September. I unfortunately missed it this year but attended last year and forgot to write about it. How I understand Famadihana performed at my site is how Vola explained it to me. If a somebody passes away in an another area that is not the town they are from, family members wrap the body in white cloth then place the body in a tomb near the area the person died. Then come September, before the ceremony, family members retrieve the body, wrap it in new white cloth and bring the body back to the hometown. Then during the ceremony, family members dance while carrying the body over their heads in place it in a tomb. Only family members may enter the tomb during the famadihana.

The ceremony I attended last September was a festival and celebration of the deceased. Many booths were lined up on the road leading to the tomb selling snacks, street food, and alcohol. Many people were watching, drinking, and dancing. Family members participating in in the ceremony wore red. A man stood on top of the tomb pointing a shotgun at the sky. A few people made speeches then the bodies were carried into the tomb. The tombs are painted white with brightly colored accents and it is taboo to point at a tomb or take pictures of it. This was a unique cultural ceremony that I felt honored to be a part of and I think it made other community members happy to see me there paying my respects.

You know you're a PCV when:
-Time doesn't mean much. A volunteer lives close to you if she is within a three hour drive
-You understand that stuff is just stuff

Polio vaccines

October 12th started the fifth polio week in the past year. The polio campaign started because several cases were reported last year starting in October 2014 mostly in the northern regions of Madagascar. To prevent the spread of the virus, MOH, WHO, UNICEF and USAID began the polio campaign in December 2014. More cases were reported so they organized a second campaign in April 2015, then a third in August, a fourth in September, and now the fifth in October 2015. The first three campaigns targeted children 0-5 years, and the two most recent have targeted everyone under 15 years. The goal of the campaign is to reach 95% of the population within that age range.

Therefore, the ACs are going to all schools and door-to-door administering vaccines. They are also gathering census by writing the number of children on house front doors and then recording that number. I've only been on a few door-to-door campaigns with the ACs. It is tiring work walking hours in the hot sun though the fokontany calling to all kids, 'Efa nihinana?' (Literally translates to 'Have you already eaten?'). If yes we check the kid's pinky finger for a mark made by a previous AC, and if no we say we have candy for them ie the vaccine. 

This is a way to mobilize the community and it's interesting to see how differently it is done in the states. I can't imagine a current mass vaccine day at school like it is done here: gathering all the kids of one age in one classroom and administering vaccines one by one. 

You know you're a PCV when

-you're not sure when it happened but instead of counting up the months you've been in country, you're counting down the months left of service

-a common discussion question: what is the first meal you're going to eat in America

Family Vacation

My brother Chris, his wife Jenna, and her mother Marie came to Mada to visit! It took several months of planning, advancements, a last minute flight change, and many confirmations, but it all went as smooth as possible. They first arrived in Tana and we ate at a train station-converted-to-restaurant and went to the shopping on market day. We walked through the frip, past food stands, and down the main avenue stopping every so often to have a beer. Chris, Jenna, and Marie experienced a taxi-brousse to Tamatave and then another brousse and ferry ride to St. Marie, a small island off of the east coast. Although it was dicey getting to St. Marie because the morning we were supposed to leave, it was pouring rain. We gave it a shot anyway and walked in the rain with our bags hoping to flag down a tuk-tuk. The ferry ride was a bit rough, and quite a few people were sick but we still made it. St. Marie was beautiful with almost perfect weather (I thought it was a little cold since we are coming out of winter). We stayed in a cute private villa with a personal cook who made the best food I've eaten in Madagascar. It was the very end of whale season but we were lucky enough to see several. Jenna was so excited she was almost bouncing out of her seat. We snorkeled in Ile aux Nattes, an even smaller island off of St. Marie and ate Malagasy style seafood. It was beautiful.

Next we headed to Andasibe which is inland to a national park. We stayed in bungalows on the edge of the rainforest and could hear the lemurs calling in the early morning. We hiked for about 3 hours and saw 5 types of lemurs, birds, frogs, bugs, and many types of plants. In the afternoon we visited another park with crocodiles, birds, and a fossa. We also went to lemur island where the lemurs literally jump from person to person eating bananas out of your hand. There we fed three types of lemurs and at one point played keep away with one of the more aggressive kinds. This was a highlight of the trip.

Lastly, we drove to my region, and visited Ambato and my site. We wandered around Ambato and I brought them to my favorite restaurants. At my site, we toured the town and stopped at a friend's house who just had a baby the week before. She made us a 'snack' which was really first lunch. We then visited my Gasy parents who prepared fish, duck, salad, pasta salad, ratatouille, and ravitoto and pork (a very Malagasy dish) for everyone to try. They even gave Chris, Jenna, and Marie Malagasy bags. It was very sweet. In the afternoon I held an AC meeting with a training on safe drinking water and sewing bucket covers. My ACs gave handwoven baskets and wall tapestries to my family. My family didn't understand much of the meeting but watched Monica karate chop a mango as entertainment. We ended the meeting with group pictures holding the voandalana.

It was wonderful to have family visit. They were impressed with my Malagasy though they mostly heard me arguing and bargaining. They even learned a few phrases and could tell when I told someone we were friends to try and get a lower price. It felt strange to have them in my town and my little house because my two worlds were combining. I'm glad they got to see me work with my amazing Acs and it was very touching that the Acs came together to give them such unique Malagasy gifts. This trip was yet another highlight of service and I felt so proud to share my Peace Corps experience with family. 

You know you're a PCV when:
-You are especially good at telling time from the sun's location
-you become innovative with limited ingrediants



St. Marie

Whale watching

Whale watching

St. Marie

canoeing to Ile aux Nattes

Ile aux Nattes

Golden lemur in Andasibe



the market at my site

after the AC meeting

gifts from my community